Every culture that shaves has developed its own version of the ritual. In Istanbul, a barber flames his razor before he touches your cheek. In Tokyo, a craftsman’s single-bevel kamisori is ground on one side only. In Florence and Mayfair, a hot towel and a bowl of lather are part of a century-old service. In America, the twentieth century belonged to the disposable blade, until a new generation went back to the heavy, chrome-plated safety razor its grandfathers used.
This guide covers the manual side of shaving only: safety razors, double-edge (DE) blades, straight razors, shavettes and the cartridge systems they compete with. Electric shavers are not included. We look at how each tradition grew, what it teaches about a better shave, and which premium razors are worth owning if you want the high-standard wet shave at home.
Key takeaways
- Straight razors are the oldest tool still in use. Turkish and Japanese barbers kept the craft alive, and today most barbers use replaceable-blade straight razors (shavettes) for hygiene.
- King C. Gillette’s idea of a handle you keep and blades you throw away (1895, double-edged blade by 1904) created the modern safety razor. Multi-blade cartridges later dominated the US market.
- Since the late 2000s, a safety-razor revival has brought DE razors back. One retailer reported safety-razor sales up 1,000% from 2009 to 2014.
- In India, double-edge blades remained the everyday norm long after the West moved to cartridges.
- Whatever you use, the dermatologist basics are the same: soften the hair, use a lubricating cream or gel, shave with the grain, rinse after each stroke and change blades after 5–7 shaves.
- Premium picks range from about $60 for a German classic to $120 for an adjustable stainless-steel razor, while blades cost cents per shave.
Four Ways to Shave Manually
Before the cultural tour, it helps to know the four tools.
| Tool | How it works | Learning curve | Cost over time | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Straight razor (cut-throat) | A single long, exposed edge that is honed and stropped | Steep | Low after purchase, but needs honing | Enthusiasts and traditionalists |
| Shavette (replaceable-blade straight razor) | Straight-razor shape that holds half of a DE blade | Steep | Very low (cheap blades) | Barbers, crisp beard lines |
| Safety razor (DE) | A guarded head clamps one double-edged blade | Moderate | Very low per shave | Daily shavers, sensitive skin, beard edging |
| Cartridge razor | Several thin blades in a pivoting plastic head | Easiest | Highest per shave | Speed and convenience |
A safety razor uses one blade, held at a fixed exposure by its guard. A cartridge stacks three to five blades. That gives more passes per stroke, which some men with coarse, curly hair find more irritating. A straight razor or shavette offers the most control for outlining a beard, but it rewards a steady hand and patience.
Turkey: The Barber’s Straight Razor and Fire
In Turkey, the traditional shave is a public, social ritual. CNN’s guide to the Turkish barber notes that little is recorded about barbers in Anatolia before the 16th century. Their importance grew in the Ottoman era alongside the coffee houses that spread under Süleyman the Magnificent, from 1520. Skills were passed from master (usta) to apprentice over years.
Ottoman barbers were not only shavers. Academic research on the Ottoman berber describes barbers who also performed circumcision, cupping and simple dental work, and who carried their own set of razors, strops and bowls.
What does the classic Turkish shave look like today?
- A single-blade straight razor, now usually a shavette whose blade is changed for every client.
- Hot water and a rich lather, worked in with a brush to soften the beard.
- A quick flame around the ears, using a cotton bud dipped in cologne or white spirit to singe fine hairs.
- A finishing splash of cologne, which in Turkey has long played the role an aftershave plays in the West.
CNN’s barbers also warn against using ordinary bath soap at home instead of a proper shaving soap or cream. Soap dries the skin and gives the blade less glide.
Turkey also has its own blade industry. Derby, based in Istanbul, describes itself as Turkey’s only shaving-blade manufacturer and exports to more than 65 countries on six continents. Its DE blades are among the most widely sold budget blades in the world.
Original article: How to shave like a Turkish barber – CNN Travel
Original article: Derby – company information
Japan: Kamisori and Precision Blades
Japan’s razor history is long and closely tied to religion. The Japanese encyclopedia Kotobank records that razors arrived with Buddhism in the 6th century, when monks shaved their heads. Later, from the Tenshō era (1573–1592), samurai shaved the crown of the head (sakayaki) with razors. Western razors were imported from the Meiji era onward, followed by safety razors.
The Japanese straight razor, the kamisori, is distinctive. It is a one-piece blade without a folding handle. The asymmetric grind is sharpened mostly on one side, much like a Japanese kitchen knife. Okami Blades, a specialist in Japanese razors, notes that kamisori were the standard tool of Japanese barbers, and that makers such as Iwasaki in Sanjō (established in 1947) became famous for them. Today many Japanese barbers use kamisori-style replaceable-blade razors from Seki, a city with centuries of blade-making.
Japanese industry also moved into safety blades early. The Kai Group, based in Seki, began making safety-razor blades in 1932. Feather, another Seki maker, makes some of the sharpest DE blades sold today. These are prized by experienced shavers and can feel unforgiving to beginners.
Original article: 剃刀 (Kamisori) – Kotobank
Original article: The history of razors – Kai Group
Original article: Kamisori – Okami Blades
Italy and the UK: The Barbershop as a Gentleman’s Club
Britain: Mayfair’s Old Guard
London’s barbershop tradition is about ritual as much as results. Truefitt & Hill was founded in 1805 in Mayfair. In 2014 Guinness World Records recognised it as the oldest barbershop in the world. The British traditional shave is built around hot towels, a badger-hair brush, a rich cream and a straight razor or safety razor. It ends with a cold towel and a balm. Many of today’s luxury shaving creams come from this world.
Original article: Our history – Truefitt & Hill
Italy: Proraso and the Florentine Barber
Italy gave the world one of its best-known barbershop products. The Martelli family company behind Proraso was founded in 1908. In 1948 it created its Pre and After Shave Cream in a Florentine laboratory, and the product was first embraced by Italian barbers. The Italian shave is generous with lather and eucalyptus-menthol freshness. The barber shaves the face in several passes, usually with the grain first and then across it.
Original article: A beautiful Italian story – Proraso USA
United States: From Gillette to Cartridges to the Safety-Razor Revival
The Invention of the Disposable Blade
The American story starts with a salesman. According to MIT’s Lemelson program, King Camp Gillette had his idea in 1895: a razor whose handle you buy once and whose cheap blades you throw away. He founded the American Safety Razor Company in 1901 with engineer William Nickerson, and production began in 1903. By 1904 he had a patent for the double-edged blade. Blades were sold in packs, which created the business model the whole shaving industry still follows.
Original article: King Gillette – Lemelson-MIT
The Cartridge Era
Through the late 20th century, US shaving moved from DE razors to twin-blade and then multi-blade cartridges. Cartridges are easy and forgiving, but they are expensive. CNBC reported in 2018 that Gillette held about 70% of the US market a decade earlier and had fallen below 50%. Subscription brands had grown fast: Harry’s had about 2% and Dollar Shave Club about 8% of the $2.8 billion US men’s shaving market.
Original article: Startups shook up the sleepy razor market – CNBC
The Revival
Then something unexpected happened. Men went back to the heavy metal safety razor. Forbes reported in 2015 that safety-razor sales at The Art of Shaving stores rose 1,000% from 2009 to 2014. Germany’s Dovo/Merkur described a huge increase in demand, with long lead times for straight razors and safety razors. The reasons are familiar to any Beard-Knight reader:
- Cost. A DE blade costs cents, compared with several dollars for a cartridge.
- Less irritation for some men. One sharp blade, used with good technique, means fewer passes over the skin.
- Precision. A safety razor’s single edge is easy to see, which makes it ideal for cheek lines and necklines.
- Craft and sustainability. A metal handle can last a lifetime, and the only waste is a small steel blade.
Original article: Not your grandfather’s razor – Forbes
India: The Double-Edge Nation
India shows how much shaving culture depends on climate, budget and plumbing. A 2004 Business Standard report on the Indian blade market found that 97% of the 3.8 billion blades sold were double-edged. The average Indian man shaved about 1.7 times a week, compared with 5.2 times in Germany. Only about a quarter of shavers used running water; most shaved from a mug. Twin-blade systems clogged with longer stubble, while a DE blade cut through it. That is a practical lesson for any bearded man who shaves only his cheeks and neck every few days.
Original article: Blade runner – Business Standard
Cartridge vs. Safety Razor vs. Straight Razor: Which Is Right for You?
Choose a Safety Razor If…
- You shave daily or every other day and want lower long-term cost.
- You get razor bumps from multi-blade cartridges.
- You want crisp, visible lines when shaping a beard.
Choose a Shavette or Straight Razor If…
- You enjoy the craft and are willing to practise.
- You want the most precise edging possible around a beard or mustache.
- You prefer a shavette over a traditional straight razor because it needs no honing.
Stay With a Cartridge If…
- Speed and ease are your top priorities.
- You travel constantly and want the most forgiving tool.
How to Shave With a Safety Razor: Dermatologist Basics
The American Academy of Dermatology’s shaving advice applies to every manual razor:
- Wet your skin and hair first to soften the beard. A shave after a warm shower is ideal.
- Apply a shaving cream or gel. Choose one for sensitive skin if your skin is dry or reactive.
- Shave in the direction the hair grows to help prevent razor bumps and burns.
- Rinse after each swipe of the razor.
- Change your blade, or throw away a disposable razor, after 5 to 7 shaves to minimise irritation.
- Store your razor somewhere dry so it doesn’t grow bacteria.
For a safety razor in particular:
- Hold it at a shallow angle, roughly 30 degrees, with the handle angled away from your face.
- Use no pressure. Let the weight of the razor do the work.
- Use short strokes and tighten the skin with your free hand.
- Start with a milder blade. Sharp Japanese blades are excellent, but they can be unforgiving at first.
Original article: How to shave – American Academy of Dermatology
Premium Razor Price Comparison (US)
Prices below were checked on the official brand stores at the time of writing. They can change.
| Razor | Material / origin | Type | Price at the time of writing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Merkur 34C HD | Chrome-plated, made in Solingen, Germany | Closed comb (straight guard) | $59.95 |
| Henson AL13 | Aircraft-grade aluminium | Fixed blade angle (30°) | $89.00 |
| Rockwell 6S | 316L stainless steel | 6 adjustable settings | $120.00 |
| Rockwell 100 DE blades | Steel blades | Blade refills | $18.00 per 100 |
Merkur 34C HD: The German Classic
The Merkur 34C, a “heavy duty” two-piece razor made in Solingen, is the safety razor many barbers recommend first. It has a short, chunky, chrome-plated handle and a straight safety bar. The weight (about 78 g) makes it easy to shave without pressing.
Price: $59.95 – Merkur 34C HD Safety Razor
Henson AL13: The Modern Engineering Pick
Henson’s razor is made from aircraft aluminium. According to the brand, it holds the blade securely at a fixed 30° angle, with no springs and no moving head, to cut down the friction and tugging that cause razor burn and ingrown hairs. Its light, precise feel makes it a good first DE razor for men coming from cartridges.
Price: $89.00 – Henson AL13 in Aircraft Aluminum
Rockwell 6S: The Adjustable Stainless-Steel Investment
The 6S is crafted from 316L stainless steel. Its base plate offers six shave settings that change the blade gap, so you can start mild and move up as your technique improves. It is a buy-once, keep-forever razor.
Price: $120.00 – Rockwell 6S Adjustable Stainless Steel Razor
Blades: Stock Up Once
DE blades are where the savings appear. A 100-pack of Rockwell blades lasts a long time if you follow the AAD advice of changing blades after 5 to 7 shaves.
Price: $18.00 – Rockwell 100 Razor Blades
Worth knowing: many enthusiasts buy a blade sampler pack, often including Japanese Feather, Turkish Derby and other brands, to find the edge that suits their skin. Blade feel is personal.
Bringing Culture Home: A Luxury Wet-Shave Ritual
You can borrow the best of each tradition without travelling:
- From Turkey: hot water, a generous lather and a refreshing cologne-style splash. Choose alcohol-free if your skin is dry.
- From Japan: a precise, sharp blade and careful technique around the beard line.
- From Italy: a pre-shave cream to soften the hair, plus a cooling menthol-eucalyptus lather.
- From Britain: hot towel first, cold rinse after, and a balm to finish.
- From the US revival: one excellent metal razor that lasts for decades.
FAQ
Is a safety razor better than a cartridge razor?
Neither is better for everyone. A safety razor uses one sharp blade and costs far less per shave. Many men with sensitive skin or razor bumps find it gentler. A cartridge is faster and more forgiving while you learn. The right technique matters more than the tool.
Are double-edge blades universal?
Standard DE blades fit nearly every modern double-edge safety razor. Feel varies a lot between brands, so try a sampler pack.
What is the difference between a straight razor and a shavette?
A traditional straight razor has a permanent blade that must be honed and stropped. A shavette looks similar but takes disposable half-blades. That is why most barbers, including in Turkey, now use shavettes for hygiene.
How often should I change a DE blade?
The AAD recommends changing blades or throwing away disposable razors after 5 to 7 shaves to minimise irritation.
Can I use a safety razor to shape my beard?
Yes. A safety razor’s exposed single edge is easy to see, which makes it ideal for neat cheek lines and necklines. A clear shave gel lets you see exactly where you are cutting.
Are Japanese blades too sharp for beginners?
Very sharp blades like Feather are loved by experienced shavers but can feel unforgiving at first. Many beginners start with a milder blade and a mild razor, then move up.
The Bottom Line
Wet shaving is a global craft. Turkey kept the straight razor and the barber’s ritual alive. Japan perfected the blade. Italy and Britain made the barbershop shave a luxury. America invented the disposable blade, and then rediscovered the heirloom safety razor. India shows how practical the DE blade remains. For the modern bearded man, a quality safety razor, a good supply of blades and the AAD’s simple technique rules are the most elegant way to keep lines sharp and skin calm.